I used to get my eyebrows shaped and threaded every two weeks. But I decided that I should just learn how to shape and groom my own brows to save time and money.
The first thing I did was watch hundreds of youtube tutorials and read as many blog posts as possible. After consuming all those resources, I still couldn’t get it.
All I keep hearing was:
“go this way”
“start from this point until you reach that point”
In my head, I’m like “where is THAT way?” and “what POINT is that again?”
I don’t know how to draw and I absolutely do not have any art skills.
My brain doesn’t and can not process information from an art or drawing perspective. So even if I slow-mo a video of someone drawing an eyebrow, I won’t get it.
I had this brilliant idea of looking at it from a math perspective, geometry to be specific. I looked at pictures of good looking pairs of eyebrows and tried to see what they all have in common.
After what seemed like a million pairs of eyebrows, I reached a light bulb moment.
So, if you can relate to not getting it, like I once was, I lovingly dedicate this to you.
If you’re one of the lucky ones who gets it, you might find my technique very silly, please consider not reading through, this is potentially embarrassing. :D
- The post is for grooming the hairs only, shading and defining will be discussed in the next installment(s).
- This is catered more to someone with dense & bushy eyebrows.
WHERE THE BROW STARTS
You know those angled-arrows guideline from the nostrils? It doesn’t work for my anatomy.
If I do that, my brows would be too far apart making my nose look even wider. From the center of my face, my brow starts here (aligned from the bulb*, not the nostrils):
Also, as you can see from the arrows above, my brows aren’t arched where they say it’s supposed to be arched. I don’t force it anymore. I’ve accepted the fact that I have straight-ish brows and I’ve embraced that. After knowing where to start, the next question is “where should it go”?
NICE BROWS ARE GENERALLY OF THE SAME WIDTH FROM THE BRIDGE OF THE NOSE TO THE “ARCH”
Anyway, here’s a photo of her un-groomed brows:
There’s a natural shape there. I know you can see it. You just have to remove the stray hairs to make it look a little neater. If you can’t see it. See the photo below:
From the end that is nearest to the nose (let’s call it “head”) — draw an imaginary line towards the direction of the highest part of the brows. It helps if you start with the top line first (line #1) — let’s not deal with “where the arch should be”. The arch will reveal itself — or not.
Our brows have a natural point and you’ll be able to see it. If you don’t have that ‘point’, just draw two straight lines that are somehow parallel to each other (lines #1 and #2) in the direction where your brow goes. Look at the photo immediately above this paragraph, see how lines #1 and #2 are of almost equal width apart… AND, line #1 reaches an “end” where there’s no more hair — there’s your point, the upper arch.
From the highest point of the upper arch, draw a line that goes downwards (line #3) — towards the direction where the eyebrow tail hairs grow.
Draw line #4 starting from the point where hair changes direction or when it starts going downwards — towards the direction where it meets line #3.
Then, remove all the hairs outside the eyebrow shape you created — pluck, shave, or whatever it is that you do, remove them all. Not everyone looks good in Cara Delevingne brows.
The groomed version should look like this:
As you can see, Gel’s brow shape was not dramatically altered. BrowHaus merely cleaned it up.
WHAT IF YOUR BROWS DON’T HAVE A TAIL?
Some people do not have a tail that goes down. So you can either draw a donwards tail or embrace your straight-across brows.
Below is a photo of my brows without the tail drawn:
Here’s a photo of my brows with the tail drawn:
My brows are quite short and bitin so I extend it a little bit downwards (towards the direction of the hair growth).
You can also do it how Ae of An Artechoke does it:
She extends it (just a little) to the side, not downwards. Notice how her brows follow the same concept of being the same-ish width from the “head” to the “arch”, only instead of a downwards tail, they’re tapered on the sides.
SO, YOU PREFER ARCHED BROWS…
You can also make your brows look a little bit more arched by tweaking the technique.
- Draw Line #1 first (refer to Gel’s photo) from the head to the arch.
- Draw Line #2 but instead of drawing it parallel to Line #1, draw the line at an upward angle slightly approaching the upper arch’s highest point.Do NOT make abrupt curves, else you’ll end up with brows that resemble tadpoles in love.
Look at the lower arrow on the left brow to see what I mean by abrupt curves:
Now look at the right brow — see how the lower arrow moves slightly upwards and towards the arch instead of parallel to the upper arrow line.
A good example of an arched brow that can be achieved using the tweaked technique is Jes’ brow below:
The width of the brow from the head slowly narrows as it approaches the highest point of the brow in a stream-lined fashion. No abrupt curves. No tadpole there, people.
WHERE THE BROW ENDS
To be honest, I just eyeball it.
The arrow from the nostril kind of works for me, but I don’t think it applies to everyone, esp those with straight brows like Ae. If she follows the arrow-from-nostril guideline, she might end up with strangely long brows.
With my brows, I just imagine how they would encase my eyeshadow. Maybe this is what they mean by the brows being able to “frame” the eyes???
My personal rule is: all the eyeshadow should fit within the brows. If I won’t be wearing eyeshadow, I just make sure that the tail doesn’t end just right above the outer corner of my eye. I extend the tail to the side not going lower than highest point of my eyes to avoid making my eyes look droopy-er.
I don’t know if I made sense there.
Anyway, I really hope I helped at least one person with this. I also listed the links to Ae’s Ultimate Brow Guide:
She’s an architect (maybe that’s why her guide is digestible to me.) I wish she wrote these in 2011. Her brows are two of the AWESOMEst in the universe.